Keeping the Kids Happy

What can you do to keep two kids happy in a small Berlin apartment when it's pouring buckets outside?

Coloring Dora....

Leah took this photo, as well. She finds that it's important to document all the details of her life.

Guest Blogger: David from Koln!

Hello loyal blog readers. My wonderful wife has agreed to let me “guest blog,” but only because I went on a little side adventure on my own, to the wonderful city of Cologne (or, Koln, depending on where you are from in the world).

I landed in Cologne on Thursday afternoon and stayed at the Le Meriden Dom Hotel, which I highly recommend. While checking in, I was notified by the extremely kind and helpful reception desk representative that I am currently a Gold level member of the Starwood Preferred Guest club. This was news to me as I don’t ever remember signing up. But, thanks to my “status,” I was upgraded for free to an executive suite. Don’t get excited, the room was tiny and had a twin bed! Makes me wonder what the non-suite rooms were like.

Meet the kolsch

After about an hour-and-a-half of catching up on e-mail (I was there for work, after all), I ventured out into the city on the hunt for a local brauhaus (brewhouse) to sample some local food and the local beer called kolsch. Despite being provided directions to a specific brauhaus, I wandered a bit and stumbled upon the shopping section of Cologne. But with limited time, I remained focused on my quest to find a brauhaus.

From what I have been told (by my guidebook), kolsch is only available in Cologne, so I had to sample at least one (two, three) glasses while I was there. After some wandering, I stumbled upon a place called Paffger Kolsch. I found a seat at the bar, and stared in awe (and envy) as the bartender served the kolsch. This wasn’t just pulling on a tap handle, this was talent.

How many is that?

I have to say, kolsch is absolutely delicious and dirt cheap by NY/NJ bar standards. But, you have to be careful. As I was warned, the servers don’t wait for you to ask, they just refill your glass (or, kolsch-stick)... and quickly. The only way to stop it is to place your coaster on top of your glass. Had I not been warned, I might still be drinking at the brauhuas.

In addition to the beer, the local food was also quite good. Based on the recommendation from my guidebook, I ordered the “Halve Hahn” as a starter, which consisted of a large roll, butter, a ridiculously thick slice of Gouda cheese, and some garnish. Not surprisingly, the cheese was outstanding and the bread was light and fresh. Following the starter, I was served a plate of roast beef and sliced potatoes. I’m no roast beef connoisseur, but this was the best roast beef I have ever eaten.

Unfortunately, due to conference calls and other work-related activities, my time at the brauhaus was cut short. However, my hotel happens to be located in a great part of the city, right next to The Dom, or “Cathedral.” While there are many cathedrals in Cologne, this is apparently THE cathedral. And, lucky me, I just had to step out on the small balcony of my hotel, and there it was, like a holy beacon in the night.

The Dom in Koln

According to my guidebook, construction on the Dom began on August 15, 1248. After the conquest of Milan in 1164, the relics of the Three Kings came as spoils to Cologne, which consequently rose to become one of the leading places of pilgrimage in Christendom. The construction of the Dom was a result of those spoils and was designed to purposely surpass all other buildings in existence. Amazing what money does to people.

After a series of meetings in another town located near Cologne, I was wisked back to the airport and headed back to Berlin. It was a short trip, but enough to make me want to return someday.

** Editor's Note: Leave it to Dave to take more pictures of the beer than the magnificent Dom. 

One More Week Until Bye-Bye Berlin!

We're leaving in a week from today, heading home in time for Halloween. In a week, this adventure will be over.

I'm divided about leaving. On the one hand, I'm looking forward to all the comforts of my home and everything I'm used to. On the other hand, this has been a very worthwhile adventure. All that we had to deal with (mostly, the Dr. Jekyl/Mr.Hyde mood-swings of a 2-year-old and a 4-year-old in a foreign country) as been nothing compared to all we got to see and do. And the challenge of it all -- tiring but so much fun.

I now have a preschooler who can spot the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame, who can say please and thank you in three languages. And a 2-year-old who will forever be talking about the Milan carousel and the car she loved to ride. Not to mention their new obsession with ice cream.

And I have tons of stories, memories and pictures that will make a kick-ass holiday card. (Watch your mailboxes!)

Needless to say, I would do this all over again.

In the meantime, I've put together a list of things I have yet to do and see. With one more weekend to fill with final Berlin sights.

Then, it will be all over. Who knew seven weeks can go by so fast!?

White on White - Change of View

I've never been a big fan of the whitewash decor I'd see in trendy magazines. It seemed so sterile, and if you've been to my house, you know I LOVE color.

But, while in Milan we had brunch at this lovely little cafe called Bianco Latte (click to see pictures) and I fell in love with the charming white decor. I bought a little white tin house and started contemplating how hard it would be to change my dining room into a white-washed haven. I'm nearly there, as most of the large furniture in that wood is already white.

Isn't that one of the best part of traveling?! To experience things that change your outlook -- and possibly the color of your dining room walls?!

Leah's Photos: Berlin Bus Tour

Leah is a budding photographer. We've been giving her our little digital camera at sights while on this trip to take her own pictures. It keeps her amused for awhile and we get some interesting shots.

Here's three shots from our recent Berlin bus tour:

Her boots...

Her Nana...

Her sister ... in mid-chase!

Annie Leibovitz better watch out!

Berlin: Left to See and Do...

Here's my list of final week activities:

- KaDeWe -- that very large department store I drove past in the car. We keep hearing about the cafeteria on the 6th floor with every food product imaginable (comparisons to Harrod's food department, if you've been to London), and their toy department -- which features Imaginarium toys. Yay!

- Prenzlauer Berg -- that trendy area I also drove thru. It's the "Brooklyn of Berlin" for all the artsy-fartsy hipsters who live there and the families that are now populating it.

- Neue Synagoge -- we have a view of the dome from our apartment, but that's it. It's called "spectacular" in my tour book. It's also in a trendy neighborhood.

- Berlin Zoo -- I'd like to return to the zoo to have more playtime on their playground. There's an aquarium there that we didn't see the first time, either. The kids like fish.

- The Pergamon -- this is hailed as the most fabulous of Berlin museums, so working up the courage to take the kids inside. This isn't an art gallery -- it's full of antiquities from ancient worlds -- including an enormous gate once belonging to Babylon. So, it's gotta be more interesting to them. 

I also have a small list of shopping to do for holiday gifts. Mostly, flat or easily packed. Although, there's a certain castle I want for the girls that might qualify as an extra carryon. 

Berlin Bus Tour

It's Nana's last morning in Berlin, so we decided to jump on a tour bus to see everything there is left to see.

Nana has been going out at nap time the last two days to see a bit more than our morning outings. She's actually entering museums and beautiful churches, so I'm living vicariously. I've only seen the outside of these places.

L&A in front of Brandenburg Gate

But today, we're going to cover a lot of ground.

It's a soggy day, luckily the girls both have their own umbrellas -- though if they choose to use them is an entirely different matter. (Mostly, they're dragging along the ground closed.)

We left the World's Heaviest Stroller behind (as carrying it onto a bus is just ridiculous) and took a train to Potsdamer Platz to board a green double-decker Berlin tour bus. It's a 2-hour ride and goes both to East and West sites.

We were a bit worried that the guide wouldn't speak English, but it turned out Martin (who resembled a German Andy Warhol) spoke fluently and even told a few corny, canned jokes he probably amuses all the American tourists with.

Nana and Leah at G'makt

It's a great tour and completely worth it. We hopped off at the Brandenburger Tor, so Nana can take a few pictures. She was a little emotional about being there and seeing remnants of the The Wall, though she can't pinpoint why. My thought is its existence spanned her lifetime -- her generation rioted against it and eventually tore the thing down. So, she has a right to feel the connection.

We were near the neighborhood of Ku'Damm -- the West side's famed walk -- when we jumped of and had currywerst from a stand. They also enjoyed freshly pressed apple juice. Delicious!

Nana heads home tomorrow morning, and we'll miss her! It was a luxury having another adult with me all day with the kids, and getting out in the evenings for solo dinners with David. Also reminds me that we'll be heading home in a week and this adventure will be over. Sniff.

(Internet working in about 5-minute spurts - joy!)

The World Without the Internet

The access to the web went kaputt last Thursday and I've been feeling so isolated as a consequence. I'm lost! I can't believe we lived in a world without it. Seriously.

Not only have I not been able to update this lovely blog (though, not too many newsworthy things have been happening around here), but not checking in on email, hearing from friends/family, looking up information and even finding out the weather forecast. Not to mention, no access to work email -- which I committed to do everyday.

Argh!!!

We finally got a technician on the phone who can help. He's currently "looking into it" and offered to send an email when he's found the solution. Dave: "Um, I have no access to email. Can you call me?" Tech: "Oh, this makes sense."

Meanwhile, we escaped for the night to a Starbucks at the local mall for a romantic evening. Duel laptops, free wifi, a mug of hot chocolate and no eye contact. Ahhh, married life!

East vs. West

Last night, we were invited to Dave's coworker's house for dinner. The coworker is an expat from Brooklyn (Park Slope) who has lived in Berlin for nearly 2 years. Her German boyfriend was also there and spoke perfect English. The food and conversation were fantastic.

Her apartment was beautiful and modern -- decidedly opposite from the dorm-like apartment we've been staying. And she included mushrooms they handpicked this weekend in the meal. Delicious.

Although the conversation skipped around quite a bit -- coworkers, favorite movies and books (we're all committed to our Kindles) -- Bernard, the boyfriend, made several comments about the differences between East Berlin, where we're staying, and West Berlin, where they lived.

Having spent a majority of my time in East Berlin, I had no idea there was a difference. But I saw for my own eyes pulling up to their apartment, there is a vast different. A seeming 20-year gap -- as the East has tried to catch-up to the "modern" West-side since The Wall came down. The East resembles a quaint small city, while the West side has a more Manhattan borough feel with restaurants, shops and crowds.

To think, I almost missed it!

Bernard says that even the population is a little different in the East. Older. More formal. Stuffy. While the West neighborhoods are filled with more worldly, urban people.

I dug out my map and have picked a few very "West" places to visit in the final week here -- including Ku-Dam, a popular street that rivaled Unter Den Linden when The Wall went up.

Full reports to follow. (If I ever get internet restored to our apartment. Grrrrr!)

POSTCARD: Wish You Were Here!

Just a note to say we miss you and wish you were here with us ...

Love, Jessica, Alice, David and Leah

Flea Market All Morning, Football All Night

The sun finally made an appearance today so we ventured out early this morning to a large flea market out by the Tiergarten (the huge park here in Berlin). Called "junk" by Dave, it was fun to see all the stuff out on display, like rows and rows of antique door handles, sets of china, beer steins and just about anything else you could think of. In one booth of music, Dave found a section named "black music" -- and his eyes bugged out.

This was certainly an outing fraught with danger: Both Alice and Leah wanted to touch things and the close corners and flimsy tables made it a precarious walk. However, Mom came away with two new ladles for her collection.

Since it was on the way, we stopped at Potsdamer Platz and all had lunch together at the same Australian place. It was good! And child-friendly. And Mom got to see a remnant of The Wall on display and got her passport stamped with authentic DDR visitor credentials.

Once home, and rested, Dave and I made plans to return to the bar he found several weekends back to watch Sunday football. They had wifi available, as well, so the use of the internet after days without it was the icing on top. However, before heading out we played a long game of hide-and-seek with the kids. Alice won the award, her first and only attempt at hiding had us running around the apartment for several frantic minutes until she finally gave herself up -- she was well-hidden under Nana's bed. Stinker.

Miami vs. Green Bay is the game we watched at Belushi's -- just north of Alexander Platz. It's a 1pm game at home, but started at 8 here. Our fantasy football team is going to have a rough day.

We're less than 2 weeks until we head home.